Makalu Expedition 2004 lead by Norwegian Sven Gangdal: Update 8

A new report from the expedition, via email, from Mick Parker.

Mick "Makalu" Parker

"...From Makalu BC we have made progress on lower and upper ice fall on west face of Makalu. Camp 1 established, camp 2 only so close, until two fixing ropes through difficult areas. Until 2 days ago we were forced back by high wind carrying ice. Poor visibility made route finding impossible. Currently we are sitting out the same conditions in BC that forced us down. We have also negotiated extra rope required to fix higher on the mountain from another Int. team due to arrive here in 1-2 days. The previous night and yesterday, we celebrated along with the Nepali staff the turn of the new year in Nepal being 2061!!

This event caught us unaware... We thought we new how to drink Rakshi, as we were offered regulary along the trek. Only the local highland Rakshi here is consumed from what we westerners recognize as a petrol container, in which a rag is removed to poor the white spirit. It warms the chest and wont freeze, given its
unique strength. This along with Cognac and Aquavit made for a lovely sleep in, and a slow entry into the new year which was what any doctor would have recommended after battling the Himalayan conditions at 6500-7000 m.

Currently all climbers are in B.C. Brit, Stian and Josef are relaxing after 3 days acclimatisation at 6500m, and organization is in progress for the upcoming push, to establish camp C2 on the Makalu La at around 7400 m.

Plans are only tentative at this stage for following progression. A summit bid may take place as soon as C3 is established. The positioning of camps for this expedition is different from previous expeditions showing that climbing mountains is all about dealing with tasks as nature delivers them.

We here at Makalu B.C. send warm wishes from our cold bodies to all who express interest in the collective ambitions of this diverse group of people.

Cheers to folks at warm homes!!!
from Mick Makalu Parker..."

Dispatches

 

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

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