A new report from the
expedition, via email, from Mick Parker.
Mick "Makalu" Parker
"...From Makalu BC we have made progress on lower and upper
ice fall on west face of Makalu. Camp 1 established, camp 2 only so close,
until two fixing ropes through difficult areas. Until 2 days ago we were
forced back by high wind carrying ice. Poor visibility made route finding
impossible. Currently we are sitting out the same conditions in BC that forced
us down. We have also negotiated extra rope required to fix higher on the
mountain from another Int. team due to arrive here in 1-2 days. The previous
night and yesterday, we celebrated along with the Nepali staff the turn of the
new year in Nepal being 2061!!
This event caught us unaware... We thought we new how to
drink Rakshi, as we were offered regulary along the trek. Only the local
highland Rakshi here is consumed from what we westerners recognize as a petrol
container, in which a rag is removed to poor the white spirit. It warms the
chest and wont freeze, given its
unique strength. This along with Cognac and Aquavit made for a lovely sleep
in, and a slow entry into the new year which was what any doctor would have
recommended after battling the Himalayan conditions at 6500-7000 m.
Currently all climbers are in B.C. Brit, Stian and Josef are
relaxing after 3 days acclimatisation at 6500m, and organization is in
progress for the upcoming push, to establish camp C2 on the Makalu La at
around 7400 m.
Plans are only tentative at this stage for following
progression. A summit bid may take place as soon as C3 is established. The
positioning of camps for this expedition is different from previous
expeditions showing that climbing mountains is all about dealing with tasks as
nature delivers them.
We here at Makalu B.C. send warm wishes from our cold bodies
to all who express interest in the collective ambitions of this diverse group
Cheers to folks at warm homes!!!
from Mick Makalu Parker..."
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