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  Dutch Mt Everest 2004 Expedition Dispatch 7,8,9

Ron, IC, April 8th: Today we went to intermediate camp on 5800 meter. Due to negotiation problems between our Spanish climber and the Yak herders we left in the afternoon. It is not an easy journey. I can’t go as fast as on sea level. Just before dark we pitch the tents and get in our sleeping bags. Dawa serves us tea and some food. We have a restless night.

Ron, ABC, April 9th: After a quick and small breakfast we go to ABC, another long day. It is not easy with my lightweight-hiking boots. Rex breaks trough the ice and gets his feet wet. Wilco arrived first and his tent is ready. Rex and I look for a flat spot, which is difficult to find. Dawa helps us with the  tents. I can feel the altitude and have problems with eating. ABC is not a comfortable place. 

Ron, ABC, April 10th

First day in ABC after a bad night with little sleep. Every move is hard work. We will stay two days here. I have problems with my throat due to the cold dry air.

Wilco, BC, April 14th

I slept well until I woke up by the sun on my tent. Breakfast at 10 sharp. Dawa asked us about our plans for going back to ABC. I told him we wait for the ropes that will be fixed to the North Col. Prem is in ABC, looking after our tents and gear, with our new Tibetan kitchen-boy.  Our Nepali kitchen-boy suffered from altitude sickness and is in BC now. He should go even lower but he does not want to pay for the transport.

I cleaned my tent from the dust this morning. Our computer has a hard time with all this dust. I hoped to make another paraglider flight today but the wind is too strong.

I met George Dijmarescu again this morning. He was also on Everest in 2002. He wants to climb Everest again and afterwards he wants to go to K2, together with Lhakpa Sherpa. I also meet “my” Sherpa Ang Mingma again. I had planned to hire him for this trip but he is with George now. But no hard feelings because I am happy I have Dawa and Prem. 

Wilco BC April 15th

After lunch a Tibetan visits us and tells that some tents in ABC are damaged by a storm. He has no details about our personal tent with the important climbing gear. We hope Prem is able to save as much as possible. All three of us have small health problems which will hopefully improve the coming days. We plan to go to ABC on April 17th.

Sunday April 18th,

Rex, Ron and Wilco decided to go to ABC on April 17th. The weather was going to improve and they wanted to have a look at the storm damage. Despite the antibiotics for Wilco’s tooth pain it takes only 6,5 hours for Wilco and Dawa. Rex and Ron follow with 7 hours.

Previously we mentioned that Wilco has contacted his dentist and his doctor. The doctor prescribed antibiotics and they seem to work because the tooth pain is much less. Hopefully it stays that way. Rex was prepared to draw the tooth already! You can read about it in Ron’s personal report. Ron shaved himself after six days to arrive clean in ABC.

Ron’s report April 17th

Before we challenged the journey to ABC we have washed and shaved ourselves in BC. Shaving a beard after six days with just a simple razorblade is not easy. Ron was pleased when the cook brought an old fashion razorblade. It was a little painful but it helped. We also ate as much as possible to stay well fed and to prepare mentally for the hard trip to ABC. It is from 5200 meter to 6400 meter and 16 kilometers in a straight line. But because of all the detours you have to make it is 25 kilometer.

But before we could go Wilco suffered from severe tooth pain. He had to call his dentist in Holland for advice. Rex was ready to draw the tooth and the three of us were waiting in the tent with the dentist equipment and first aid kit at hand. But the dentist, and the doctor, said it could be cured with antibiotics Rex was a little disappointed he could not play dentist. Luckily the antibiotics seem to work because Wilco’s pain is much less. It was for Wilco the 13th time he went to ABC, for Rex and Ron the second time.

The journey went well. Wilco’s time of six hours is great but also Rex and Ron’s 7 hours is good. But we have to say we were very tired when we arrived. ABC is well equipped: personal tents, kitchen tent and mess tent. After a good meal and a good night of sleep we started to sort the gear for the camps 1, 2 and 3. We discovered the battery had leaked on our gear: the acid damaged mattresses, a sleeping bag and some cloth. We separated the damaged gear and hope it will not get worse.

We have some light snow in ABC and little wind. It has stormed the last couple of days and several large tents have been damaged. There is a stormy wind on the summit for a couple of days already. We are preparing to climb to the North Col to establish camp1.

Regards, Ron

Home: We have talked to Wilco Ron and Rex. They sound very positive. They want to go to the bottom of the North Col today. They can’t go much higher because there are no fixed lines put in place yet. The most experienced Sherpa climbers from different expeditions will fix the lines. Everybody is waiting for Russell Brice, a very experienced Everest climber, who has a big team on the mountain this year. They will also have a Puja today. We heard the snowfall increased and there is half a meter snow now in ABC. 

We had some problems with the computer in ABC. It is not the best environment for electronics. But we have some spare equipment and everything works now.

We just heard the good news that our trekking agent Surya has been released from prison in Kathmandu. It is still unclear why he has been imprisoned, just before we arrived in Nepal.

Last Sunday we were in ABC when a Bhoedist Lama showed up. We asked him to perform a Puja ceremony for Dawa, Prem, Wilco, Rex and Ron. During the ceremony the other Sherpa’s, on their way to fix ropes to the North Col, joined. That day Wilco, Rex en Ron packed their bags to leave for the North Col the next day.

The weather forecast is good and the team leaves for camp 1. The route appears to have changed since the last visit of Wilco in 2002. They are the first team on the North Col and they pick the best spot for their tents, before they descent to ABC.

Wilco is satisfied with the result. He is feeling good, no tooth pain anymore. In ABC he talked to Edward Bekker, Russel Brice and George. Wilco wants to go up again on April 22nd, hopefully to establish camp 2.

Ron has broken his altitude record. He is motivated to go higher. But he has still problems with his throat.

Also Rex has broken his altitude record. His acclimatization is going much better now. He has only some normal Everest coughing problems. He is looking forward to go higher but worries about the big number of climbers in ABC.

The plan is to have a rest day on April 21st..,  to go to North Col on the 22nd with gear and tents for camp 2, to spend the night at camp 1 and to descent on April 23rd. Than they plan to stay in ABC to go up again to establish camp 2. They want to pick a good site for camp 2 before the crowd goes up.

Wilco, Ron and Rex

Base Camp

Intermediate Camp


North Col in the background

Pictures copyright the Dutch Mt Everest expedition


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