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Day 58
(26th of May): The plan of quickly reaching Kathmandu didn't come out. Two
days strike which caused the blockade of the city forced the members of the
expedition to stay in Pokhara. Best regards, Wojtek
Day 57 (25th of May): Members of the mBank Era
Annapurna South Face Expedition are approaching Kathmandu. In previous plans
they wanted to reach this city the next day, but the political opposition in
Nepal announced that they would block the capital city during next two days.
If the expedition doesn’t reach the city before midnight, they will spend next
two days on the outskirts.
Day 53
(21st of May): Good morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face
Expedition. The expedition is almost over. Our decision to finish the
expedition turned out to be right, as the weather is completely spoilt. There
is a heavy rain in the BC, and heavy snowfall in the upper parts of the face.
This is a good time to sum up the expedition. Since the settlement of the BC
we’ve attached about 3500 m of the fix ropes, generally we’ve had fix ropes up
to the altitude of 7300m. From here where we are now it can be seen that it
was about 300 m of difficulties and we could have reached the easier part
under the peak. Anyway, it wasn’t the difficulties that we couldn’t overcome,
but the weather. The team had done all it could in these conditions. We all
went down to the base successfully, it wasn’t easy to cross this melting
glacier. I just want to say that it was a great experience. Thank you all.
Piotr Pustelnik
Day 52
(20th of May): Good Morning this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition.
The expedition is over. According to what I’ve said earlier, today at Midnight
we started preparing for the final attack... Unfortunately the predictions of
the last weather forecast turned out to be unsuccessful. Instead of a pretty
good weather there was a terrible storm with heavy snowfalls. The Camp II was
ruined within 2 hours and in the morning we were forced to go down to Camp I,
as there was no chance to go upwards in such terrible weather conditions.
Anyway, not always you can win...We still have the great satisfaction because
we reached the parts of the face that we could easily cross, if only the
weather let us. The group of great people did a really good job here. Thank
you all very much and...see you! Piotr Pustelnik
Day 51 (19th of May): Good morning, this is mBank Era
Annapurna South Face Expedition, welcome from Camp II. We’ve had a hard day
yesterday, with a strong wind that covered our tents with snow. But we managed
to put the fix ropes up to the altitude 7200-7300m, where we left all
equipment and about 400-500m of ropes. We are discussing the options of the
final attack now. The prevailing option is to start today night, putting the
fix ropes on the way. It is risky, because it takes about 1200-1300m of
climbing plus putting fix ropes, but the second option would be to settle
another camp and I don’t think we have time for it. We will try to start the
final attack from this low camp, keep your fingers crossed for us, for the
weather...wish us luck. Piotr Pustelnik
Day 49
(17th of May): Good Morning this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition.
Welcome heartily from the highest point which our expedition has reached so
far- from the Camp II. Today the four person team: Dariusz Zaluski, Peter
Hamor, Sergey Bogomolov and me reached this camp. After the last weather
breakdown, one from two tents was a little damaged, but we have repaired it.
The second one is OK. Tomorrow my team will be putting the fix ropes on the
way to the Camp III, and I hope that the same day we will reach the altitude,
and we will find a place where we will settle the camp. The second two person
team reached the Camp I today. I hope that everything will be OK, we have
quite much equipment and if the weather is good we should do it. The weather
conditions on this altitude were quite good today. Piotr Pustelnik
Day 47
(15th of May): Hi, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition, welcome
from the BC. In a few minutes we will leave this place. The weather forecasts
are neither good nor bad, but we have a strong motivation to end successfully
our adventure with Annapurna. Hold the thumbs for us, as I said in earlier
relation this is our last attempt… Piotr Pustelnik
Day 45
(13th of May): Hi, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. Welcome
from the Base Camp. We have made plans for the next days. Tomorrow two sherpas
will go upwards, they will take food, gas and some equipment with them to
supply the Camps. On Saturday four-person team: Me, Dariusz Zaluski, Sergey
Bogomolov and Peter Hamor, and on Sunday two-person team: Martin Gablik and
Aljosa Markac will go upwards. Because of his health problems, Vlado Strba has
to stay in BC. This is our last attempt, if it is possible we will settle the
Camp III, and from there we will try to reach summit. Otherwise we will
surrender. There is no third option. Today we had a good weather with a good
visibility, so we could look at the face. This observation has given us the
general knowledge of where we should go, we decided for the optimal way for
us. Thanks to everyone who heartens us, hold the thumbs for us.
Day 44
(12th of May): Good Morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna Expedition, welcome
heartily from the Base Camp. Yesterday we went down for a short rest. In two
days we will go upwards and I hope we will manage to settle the Camp III. On
the altitude where we settled the Camp II there is a strong wind today. After
three days in the Camp II, me and Darek felt a little tired, our stock of food
and gas went out, so we decided to go down to the Base Camp. The rest of
members, who were waiting in the Camp I, made the same decision. From the
pictures which we have made, we generally know where we should go, where we
should put the fix ropes, so I’m still full of optimism and I believe that we
will make it, that we will reach the summit. Piotr Pustelnik
Day 42
(10th of May): Hi, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. Today we
went upwards to put fix ropes on the way to the Camp III, but the weather
deteriorated. The little avalanches which fell on us made us decide to return
to the Camp II. We decided that tomorrow we will go down to the Base Camp
where we will take some rest and prepare some equipment. After that we will
probably go upwards in one team, in order to settle the Camp III. Piotr
Pustelnik
Day 41
(9th of May): This is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. Welcome from
the Camp II. Today my three-person team brought all deposits to the Camp II.
Moreover, me and Darek Zaluski put some fix ropes on the way to Camp III. The
second team will spend today’s night in Camp I. The weather is still
changeable, but it hasn’t hindered us in our work. Because our Camp II is
located in crevasse, the powder avalanches fall down on it from time to time.
Tomorrow we will decide about our next steps, if the weather is the same or
better we will go upwards to put some fix ropes on the way to Camp III. We
feel good, only Vlado Strba has some troubles with gizzard, and he had to
return to the BC. Piotr Pustelnik
Day 38
(6th of May): Good Morning this is mBank Era Annapurna South Expedition. I
have some good news! Today three-person team: Sergey Bogomolov, Peter Hamor
and Martin Gablik reach the first flat place on the serac where they have
settled the Camp II. It is situated on the altitude 6800-6900 m. Tomorrow, if
they feel good, they will go upwards to put the fix ropes on the way to Camp
III. The rest of us will prepare some stuff, and probably on Saturday we will
go upwards to supply the Camp II. If the weather remains good, I hope that we
will settle the Camp III quickly. These are our plans for the nearest days.
Piotr Pustelnik
Day 37 (
5th of May): Hi, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition, welcome
warmly. There is three-person team in the Camp I, tomorrow they will try to
finish putting the fix ropes on the way to Camp II. If it is possible, they
will spend the night there. My four-person team is in the ABC today, and
tomorrow we will go upward to the Camp I. Everything is all right, the Camp I
has not been destroyed too much during the last weather breakdown. I hope that
everything will be OK, and day by day we will be closer to our aim.
Day 35
(3rd of May): Hi, this mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. The sun
visited our Base Camp today morning. Today two Sherpas went upwards with some
equipment. We are finishing our rest time too, tomorrow we will go upwards
with the strong decision that we will settle the Camp II. If the weather
conditions are good, I hope they are, we will do it. Today Pawel Jozefowicz,
left our expedition, as it had already been planned before. I want to thank
everyone who heartens us, hold the thumbs for us... Piotr Pustelnik
Day 33
(1st of May): Good Morning this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition.
I am sending greetings from the Base Camp. Yesterday we went down from the
Camp I and now we are all in the Base Camp, where we are going to take two
days rest. The weather conditions are pretty bad. We have big snowfall in the
Base Camp and on higher parts of mountains there are very strong winds. By now
we have put the fix ropes quite high, as well as the big deposit. I think that
one day with good weather, 200-300 meters of fix ropes and we will reach the
first flat place on the altitude of about 7000 m. All members of the
expedition feel very good. This is an incredible mountain, as I said
earlier, very bold and climbing gives us a lot of pleasure. Piotr Pustelnik
Day 30
(28th of April): Good morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face
Expedition. All members of our expedition are in Camp I today. We have put 500
m of fix ropes on the way to the Camp II. We tried to put another 200 m, but
we had to return to the Camp I, because of a little weather breakdown. The
weather forecasts for the next three days are quite good, so we will go
upwards tomorrow and we will try to put the fix ropes to the place of our
planned Camp II. I don’t know yet where exactly and on which altitude it will
be. The visibility was very bad today, and I couldn’t anticipate where we will
settle the Camp II. This is a really magnificent mountain… I hope that
oncoming days will get us closer to our aim. Piotr Pustelnik
Update
Day 27
(25th of April): Good Morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna Expedition. For the
time being the weather is good. Today six-person team: Sergey Bogomolov,
Aljosa Markac, Martin Gablik and Peter Hamor and two Sherpas went upwards.
They reached the ABC, and checked how the situation looks like, after last
weather breakdown, . They checked two out of three tents, it looks very good,
and all our equipment is just how we had left it. Tomorrow they will try to
reach the Camp I, during climbing they will check fix ropes , and on Tuesday
they will start putting fix ropes on the way to Camp II. In about three days
my four-person team is going to change them. Mean time we will trim the fix
ropes where it will be necessary, during our tomorrow’s climbing to ABC, and
on Tuesday we should to reach the Camp I. I hope that, if the weather
condition are good, in three, four days we will settle at least the temporary
the Camp II on the altitude about 6900 m. Piotr Pustelnik
Update
Day 26
(24th of April) Hi, This is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. The sun
is shining above our heads today, so our humors are much better then
yesterday. The snow is slowly melting away, and little avalanches are falling
down from higher parts. If these conditions don’t change, one team will go
upwards tomorrow to check how the tents and ropes look after the last weather
breakdown. If it’s possible they will start putting the fix ropes on the way
to Camp II. On Monday, if the weather is still good, next team will go upwards
and we will work together. Everything is getting back to normality, we are
enjoying the shining sun. We know that this situation won’t last very long,
but it’s enough to increase the group’s morale. We hope that everything will
be OK, and we will call you tomorrow or on Monday. Best greetings, Piotr
Pustelnik
Update
Day 25
(23rd of April): Good morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna Expedition. Today I
don’t have good news for you. This night about 30-40 cm of snow fell on our
tents in the Base Camp, so from three a.m. we’ve been fighting with it.
Martin’s tent is a little damaged, and we will have to repair it. These
conditions made us stop all activities above Base Camp for at least two days.
Today we will think over what our further activities will be. I’m a little
nervous, because yesterday evening we’ve joked that on Manaslu it started with
the same scenario, but it is Annapurna and this situation will not repeat…we
were wrong, as I said earlier for most of the night we had to work to make
everything more or less ok. Piotr Pustelnik
Update Day
24 (22nd of April): Good Morning this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face
Expedition. I am sending greetings for everyone from the Base Camp. Today all
members of the expedition went down. The Sherpas brought the equipment to the
altitude about 5800 m, but quite strong thunderstorm turned them back to the
Base Camp. Tomorrow, probably, the three-person team will go upwards: Sergey
Bogomolov, Peter Hamor and Aljosa Markac. If it is possible, they will try to
reach the Camp I with some equipment. Yesterday we made a little
reconnaissance, and we think that we’ve found the passage way to Camp II. We
still need to check it. We will have to put some fix ropes on this way because
it is bold, not dangerous but bold. The weather is still not good, and we
still have a little weather breakdown with snowfalls and fog.
Piotr Pustelnik
Update
Day 23
(21st of April): Hi, This is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition,
welcome from the Camp I. I’m here with Dariusz Zaluski, Pawel Józefowicz and
Martin Gablik , the team which settled the Camp I went down yesterday. Today
we went upwards to make a reconnaissance, and to see how the further way up
looks like. We put 200 m of fix ropes. Tomorrow or on Friday the four-person
team will go upwards, and my team will go down. In the meantime the Sherpas
will go up with some fix ropes and other equipment. For the time being we feel
good, only Vlado Strba has got a little fever and a cough. In fact I have just
got rid of my cold. People say that what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.
So it seems I am stronger now. Greeting for everyone, Piotr Pustelnik
Update
Day 21 (19th of April) Hi, This is mBank Era Annapurna
Expedition. Today the four-person team went upwards: Peter Hamor, Vlado Strba,
Aljosza Markac i Sergey Bogomolov. In the afternoon they reached the pass
where they settled the Camp I. It is located on altitude 6100 m. Tomorrow the
rest of us will go up, we will take some equipment to supply our new Camp I.
I’m very glad, that we’ve done it. The weather is quite good. I am a little
sick, but I hope that it will get well very fast. Tomorrow we will see what
kind of conditions we will find further on the face… Piotr Pustelnik
Update 4/17/2004:
Day 19
(17th of April): Good morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face
Expedition. Today the five: Sergey Bogomolov, Peter Hamor, Martin Gablik and
two Sherpas went upwards. They took some staff with them. Tomorrow early
morning they will take more equipment from the deposits, and will try to put
fix ropes on the way to Camp I. I think that they won’t be able to stay there
overnight, so they will come back to the ABC. On Monday the rest of the
members, I suppose, will move to the Camp I. The weather conditions are
generally the same. Till about 13 pm it is quite nice, sometimes even sunny,
but the rest of the day is worse, because heavy clouds and fog appear. The
conditions on the face haven’t worsened significantly, so I think that
everything will be OK. We have some troubles with our generator, and with
computer, but it’s the secondary thing. The first thing is to make progress in
our work. Greetings for everyone, Piotr Pustelnik
Update 4/16/2004:
Day 17
(15th of April) Hi,This is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. We have
just come back to the Base Camp. The weather is still bad. Today five-people
team went upwards, but they had to return, because of very bad weather
conditions. We only reached the altitude, where we had placed our deposit
earlier. The visibility was so bad, that we decided to come back to ABC and
further to the Base Camp. The way from ABC to the Base Camp wasn’t easy too.
Snow with rain falling on bold lawny made this surface is very slippy, so we
decided to put two ropes on the lawn for our safety. I know it’s strange and
maybe funny, but as I said it’s for our safety. The weather forecast for today
gave hope that the morning would be better. It wasn’t better, we had a rain in
the morning, and rain with snow in the afternoon. But I have to say that our
situation is not that bad, because we have much equipment deposited near the
face, and we need two days of good weather to settle the Camp I. Piotr
Pustelnik
Update 4/15/2004:
Day 16
(14th of April): Good morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face
Expedition. The weather is still not good. Yesterday, we reached the altitude,
which is about in half a distance to Camp I, but the weather was so bad that
we came back to ABC. It was snowing from 3 pm to 3 am, but the snow melt away
quite quickly. Today morning the four: Vlado Strba, Peter Hamor, Martin Gablik,
I, Sergey Bogomolov have gone upwards. They want to finish the way we have
started, find a way across the glacier, and maybe they will put the fix ropes
up to the pass. If this plan, at least partly works, then tomorrow morning the
next four: Piotr Pustelnik, Dariusz Załuski, Paweł Józefowicz and Aljosa
Markac will go upwards with purpose to finish this work, and to settle the
Camp I. The way across the glacier isn’t as easy as we expected. This glacier
is not so safe, maybe it isn’t technically difficult, but there are plenty of
crevasses. Vlado Strba fell into one crevasse with his legs yesterday, so we
decided to put the fix ropes on the whole way across the glacier. I’m waiting
for the Sherpas, who will bring us some more equipment. As I said earlier the
weather isn’t good, but I hope it gets better. If the weather improves, and we
settle the Camp I, we will come back to the Base Camp. We could than send the
Sherpas upwards to supply the Camp I…It all depends on how it goes today and
tomorrow. Piotr Pustelnik
Update 4/13/2004:
Day 14
(12th of April): Good evening, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face
Expedition. I’m greeting everyone from the altitude 4900 m, from ABC. Six
members of the expedition are here. The weather is not very kind, but it could
be worse. We managed to cross the glacier and we have two, maybe three hours
left to the place where we will start attaching the fix ropes. Tomorrow all
six is going upwards with the equipment, and we will work there to put the
ropes, of course if there are no old ropes, but if there are we will put the
new ones anyway. If the weather is good tomorrow, maybe we will settle the
Camp I, but I have some doubts. If it doesn’t work out tomorrow, maybe we will
finish the next day. Tomorrow Martin Gablik and Paweł Józefowicz, and on
Wednesday two sherpas will reach the ABC. Tuesday is the Nepal New Years Day,
and our sherpas will celebrate a little. I wonder how they will look after
that. We all feel very well. I’m sending a big hug for everyone. Piotr
Pustelnik
Update 4/11/2004:
Day 13
(11th of April): Hi, This is mBank Era Annapurna Expedition, we welcome
everyone from the Base Camp. It’s Easter today, so I would like to wish you
all the best and happy Easter. Today Paweł Józefowicz and Martin Gablik
reached the Base Camp, so it was pretty busy. Peter Hamor, Sergey Bogomolov
and two sherpas, went upwards today. Their task is to check up the way to the
ABC. About 12.00 (local time) they informed us that the way was quite easy,
but we will see what will be higher. They took the tents, ropes and some other
equipment. If it is possible they will reach the ABC or put the stuff a little
lower. Tomorrow most of the members will go upwards with the plan to settle
the ABC, and put some fix ropes on the face on the way to Camp I. I think rope
fixing should take about one day, because it’s only 400-500 meters of fix
ropes. We hope that in two, three days we will settle the Camp I, and we will
see what kinds of conditions on the face are. The weather, as I said earlier,
is changeable. Till about 2.00 pm it is sunny and very warm, and later it gets
cloudy. Yesterday we had a very small rain, and we heard the storm from the
distance, but in fact it wasn’t so fearful, only clouds covered up the face.
We have checked our walkie-talkies, it works OK. I’m feeling a little tired,
but I’m also very excited with what is going to happen. I’m sending a big hug
for everyone. Piotr Pustelnik
Update
4/10/2004: Day 12 (10th
of April): Good morning this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition, we
are greeting everyone from our base which we have settled today. The weather
is changeable, till 12-1 pm it is sunny and very warm, and later it gets
cloudy. It rains a little on our altitude, but it seems that higher there are
no snowfalls. Tomorrow we will have puja and the first reconnaissance to look
where ABC will be situated. We will take some stuff, but we will come back to
our Base Camp to spend the night, and only on Monday all team will go to the
ABC, and after that maybe we will start fixing ropes on face. We are in
fighting trim. We are feeling a little tired because the march to the our Base
Camp took a little longer than we expected. We had an unpleasant adventure,
because among one hundred porters, we had 20 Maoists, who stirred up the rest.
Eventually all porters left the expedition. Our cook Kalu solved the problem,
and with several new porters he carried all equipment. Our Base Camp is
located in the same place where in 1992 Krzysztof Wielicki’s expedition
settled their base. It is situated on the lawn, and it trims our humors even
more! Besides, our friend Alosha got information, that he would become father,
so we have more reasons to joy. Anyway, tomorrow we have to start a normal
expedition’s work… Piotr Pustelnik
Update 4/10/2004:
Good
Morning, this is mBank Era Annapurna South Face Expedition. We have just
reached our Base Camp. We have some troubles, because all of our porters
refused to co-operate and went down. Therefore, every one of us is carrying
the equipment on the trot, to the place where we would like to settle our Base
Camp. This place is about two hours from Annapurna Base Camp, which is a set
of loggias, situated on the altitude 4100 m. Our Base Camp is located on the
altitude 4200 m, and we have an excellent view on Annapurna from here. We
feel great. Today the weather was good, yesterday about twenty centimeters of
snow fell, but it melt away. Reaching our base is quite easy, so if we wanted
we could go for a beer to the loggias in about one hour, but now we have some
more important things to do. Probably on Sunday we will move on with small
reconnaissance to ABC. There is some snow on the face, but I would be
surprised if there was no snow at all. After the latest winter, there is
rather little snow left.
Greetings for everyone, who
hearten us. Piotr Pustelnik
Update
4/9/2004: Day 10: Today (8th of April) the members of
the mBank Era Annapurna Expedition have reached the
altitude 4100 m, and are approaching the place where
they will settle the Base Camp. Unfortunately at the
moment the expedition has an obligatory stand, caused by
porters’ refuge. The cook and his helper have settled to
look for new porters. Two Sherpas are presently blazing
a trail through the glacier, to the place where the
expedition will settle the Base Camp, so that it was
possibly closest to the wall.
Update 4/7/2004:
Day 9 (7th
of April): Today members of the mBank Era Annapurna Expedition reached the
Machhapuchre Base Camp (3700 m). The weather is changeable, with prevailing
rain and snow, but temporally there are moments of good visibility. The
scenery is changing too, forests are gradually turning to scree areas on
glacier’s moraine. Probably tomorrow afternoon, the expedition will reach the
Annapurna Base Camp (4200 m). The spirit of the team is very good.
Update 4/4/2004:
Hello,
This is Piotr Pustelnik reporting from Kathmandu. Luckily we’re done with all
the preparations and today in the afternoon, after we received our permit.
People say, there is still a lot of snow in the mountains, but maybe there
will be less of it when we get there. I believe we’ve done our best to avoid
any surprises that may occur in the mountains. Tomorrow (03.04) we’ll leave to
Pokhara and from there to the place where the trek to Annapurna Sanctuary
begins. Today e had a thunderstorm and some protests (I don’t know against
what) in Kathmandu. Now we’re packing all our equipment and this may keep us
occupied until early morning. Greetings to everyone. Piotr Pustelnik
Update 4/3/2004:
From the
short relation which Piotr Pustelnik sent us yesterday (2nd of April), it
appeared that today early morning (local time) members of the expedition were
going to reach Naya Pul. From there they were supposed to walk to Birethanti.
However, today in the afternoon
we have received the following message from Piotr: “Hi, Our plan didn’t come
out. Today we reach only the outskirts, because of road blockades. After
yesterday’s demonstration the opposition went out on strike and blocked the
streets of Kathmandu. We lost one day, but tomorrow we are going to settle off
at 4 am, so I hope we can make up for today’s delay…
Best greetings for everyone,
Piotr”
Update 3/31/2004:
mBank Era
Annapurna Expedition – Report 1: Expedition leader Piotr
Pustelnik reports from Kathmandu. Six team members are
already in Kathmandu: Piotr Pustelnik, Dariusz Zaluski,
Vlado Strba, Peter Hamor, Siergiej Bogomolow and Aljosa
Markac. On Saturday morning they will leave for Pokhara,
and from there on foot to Dhampus. They will spend the
night in Dhampus. Remaining team members Pawel
Jozefowicz and Martin Gabloik will join in the Base
Camp.
Piotr Pustelnik will lead a group of
veteran climbers to attempt to summit Annapurna in
Spring 2004. They plan to meet on April, 1 in Kathmandu.
Then they go to Pokhara and 6 days trek to Annapurna
Sanctuary. They choose the Bonnington classic route on
the South Face. Piotr believes, we "probably we can
establish ABC near the wall and three camps in the wall.
Fixing, of course, necessary. Keep fingers crossed."
Best wishes. Piotr
Piotr Pustelnik - leader - Poland
Dariusz Załuski - Poland
Paweł Józefowicz - Poland
Vlado Strba - Slovakia
Peter Hamor - Slovakia
Martin Gablik - Slovakia
Peter Frankovic - Slovakia
Sergey Bogomolov - Russia
Aljosa Markac - Slovenia
Piotr Pustelnik
was born on July 12, 1951 in Lodz (Poland). Nothing had prefigured his great
climbing career until he turned 18 in 1969. Then he went of his first mountain
hike and soon understood mountains were the best kind of landscape for him.
Later, during one of his stays in the Tatras, he saw some climbers descending
a mountain, accompanied by the clanging of their gear. He immediately felt a
desire to be like them.
The beginnings
were not easy, although the first steps were taken almost at once. Together
with his cousin, he decided to enroll in a climbing course with the
Mountaineering Club in Lodz. After numerous theoretical classes, practical
assessment followed in the rocks of Podlesice. He failed and was kicked out of
the course. He was only 22 then. It did not impair his determination though
and he started to practice on his own with a couple of friends. He had done
quite a lot of climbing in the Tatras before he finally decided to "legalize"
his activity, and passed the climbing exam (on the second attempt). Several
months later he became an instructor of alpinism.
In 1980 he first
went abroad, to the Alps. The trip organized by the Academic Mountain Club in
Lodz turned out successful, enabling Piotr to do a few major routes, including
the eastern face of Mt Blanc.
After that, a
period of family life and writing a doctoral thesis followed, marking a break
in his active climbing until 1985. Then he went to Cashmere, and a year later
he attempted to climb Pinnacle (6950 m), which he did not summit due to
altitude problems. In 1989 he climbed Korzhenevskoy Peak in the Pamir. Then he
could go only higher.
His debut in the
Karakoram came in 1990, on an expedition with Wanda Rutkiewicz, and brought
immediate success - he summited Gasherbrum II (8035 m) in a solo climb. The
next 8000-ers followed smoothly in the next decade:
| Gasherbrum II (8035 m) |
19 July 1990 |
| Nanga Parbat (8125 m) |
12 July 1992 |
| Cho Oyu (8201 m) |
24 September 1993 |
| Shishapangma (8027 m) |
6 October 1993 |
| Dhaulagiri (8167 m) |
26 September 1994 |
| Mount Everest (8848 m) |
12 May 1995 |
| K2 (8611 m) |
14 July 1996 |
| Gasherbrum I (8068 m) |
15 July 1997 |
| Gasherbrum II (8035 m) |
21 July 1997 |
| Lhotse (8501 m) |
15 May 2000 |
|
Kangchenjunga |
15 May 2001 |
|
Makalu |
May 2002 |
|
Manaslu |
17th of May 2003 |
Piotr Pustelnik
is a researcher at the Faculty of Processing Engineering and Environment
Protection, Technical University of Lodz. He does a lot of climbing in the
mountains all over the world. Currently, he is involved in a project of 'Three
Crowns", aiming to reach the 14 highest peaks of the Himalayas, next to the
highest and the second highest peaks of all the Continents.
Written by Waldek Brygier
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Altitech2:
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
battery.
See more here. |
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