French-Portuguese Gasherbrum II Expedition 2004 – Debriefing
members of the expedition started to arrive to Islamabad on 9th of July. After
some days in the capital of Pakistan, where we took the chance to visit the
most famous monuments of the city, we left by bus to Skardu on the 12th.
days we travelled along the Karakorum Highway crossing beautiful areas and
unforgettable places. The journeys were long and we were very happy when we
finally reached Skardu on the night of 13th.
We had one
day to rest in Skardu where we chose to buy the last things still missing for
15th we left for Askoli. 7 hours of jeep. We crossed the last traces of
civilization, but in the memory remains the smiles of the people of the
day was the beginning of the trekking. During 7 days we walked along the
Baltoro Glacier, with the objective to arrive to the Gasherbrum II Base Camp.
The trekking was amazing because it allowed us, for the first time to see some
mythic mountains like the Trango Towers and the majestic K2.
22nd we arrived to Base Camp, and after one day of rest we decided to go for
Camp 1. The way up was long and hard because we were not acclimatized and also
because we had big charges. The night was a little bit hard for some of us.
woke up the next morning the weather was fabulous and we planned to go to Camp
2. At 5pm we left Camp 1 and started to climb to Camp 2. At Camp 2, two
members (Emmanuel Exposito and Jean-Louis Manesse) decided to go a little bit
forward… and they didn’t stop before they reached the summit of Gasherbrum II.
expedition was already a success, after 4 days on the Base Camp we had two
members on the summit. It was the 26th of July.
the 26th and 27th everybody returned to Base Camp because the weather was
getting worse. In fact it snowed for 8 days in a row, and when we tried to go
up again to Camp 1 on the 5th of August, we had a lot of work to find and to
make the tracks.
day we climbed to Camp 2 but there was a lot of fresh snow. It was quite hard
to make the tracks. We arrived to Camp 2 and we were very happy to see our
tents there. We had a good sleep but when we woke up the next morning the sky
was completely grey. The summit of Gasherbrum II was constantly surrounded by
big clouds of snow due to strong winds. The only thing to do was go down.
to Base Camp on the 9th was very hard because we had to cross the icefall with
a lot o fog and snow falling. A memorable day!!!
continued to snow for the next 5 days and considering the conditions we
decided that the best thing to do was to return home.
the other expeditions we also had a lot of problems with the porters. We only
left Base Camp on the 17th. Direction: Gondoghoro La. It was a nice pass, but
like the rest of our time in Pakistan we didn’t have luck with the weather. We
didn’t see anything.
to Skardu and Islamabad was normal with no incidents. Now everybody is back in
France, already planning their next projects!!!
It was a
good expedition, full of new experiences. I think that all of us learned a lot
and we’ll try to do much better next time.
Pakistan, Beautiful Bastistan!!!
GASHERBRUM II 2004 Pakistan
OVERVIEW: This expedition consists of
Nuno Caetano, from Portugal, and 10 more climbers and scientists from France.
Their mission is to summit Gasherbrum II (8035m/26,260ft) as well as to
conduct an original scientific experiment involving the effects of
environmental pollutants on the ozone layer, by taking various ice samples
from Baltoro glacier. (Glaciers trap air bubbles, and scientists can determine
atmospheric compositions from glacial ice samples, not unlike the research
done in polar regions.) The team plans on arriving in Islamabad at the
beginning of July and returning from their expedition at the end of August.
1. Nuno Caetano, 26, Madeira, Portugal.
2. Jean Louis Manesse, 29, Chalon sur Saone, France.
3. Nicolas Sieger, 35, La Rochelle, France.
4. Frederic Heymes, 28, Vizinobres, France.
5. Thierry Segonne, 29, Megeve, France.
6. Mathias Mougenot, 28, Epinal, France.
7. Pierre Feuillet, 56, Herault, France.
8. Bruno Decoret , 57, Lyons, France.
9. Rigis Vanhasbrouck, 48, Nevers, France.
10. Claire David. 32, Paris, France.
11. Claudie Decoret, 56, Lyons, France.
Expedition to Pakistan July-August 2004
On line from the Expedition
Saturday, 10 July 2004: I just received word from Jean-Louis
All goes well in Islamabad! 50 porters already left
yesterday (Friday, 9 July) and the alpinists will leave tomorrow (Monday, 11
July) for Skardu. It will take them two days by Jeep along the famous
Karakoram highway, which goes along the Indus River, before arriving at K2
Motel where all the expeditions meet again. Sophie.
of the Gasherbrum II
1889-1929 The international expedition headed by the
Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth studies possible
ways to the top of the Gasherbrum II and
gets to 6250 meters on the south flank.
First ascent via the southwest spur by an
Austrian expedition headed by F. Moravec.
Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans
Willenpart starts from a
bivouac at 7700 meters via the east spur to the
summit on 7th.
Second ascent by a French group, 19 years after the first ascent. During
this expedition, the first victim at the
Gasherbrum has to be lamented. In this
year, three expeditions get to the
summit, among others a Polish women team
headed by W. Rutkiewicz.
A Chilean and a German expedition
succeeded in the 6th and 7th ascent.
1982: R. Messner Summits with two Pakistanis.
During the legendary double ascent of two
8000 peaks, Messner and H. Kammerlander
get to the summit of Gasherbrum II and
afterwards Hidden Peak. Counting
and registration is more complicated
during the following years because some
illegal teams got to the summit. Both
peaks belong to the less frequently
climbed 8000 peaks. Per year, only 2 to 3
permits are given.
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.