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The general director of
Activities and Sports Promotion, Juan de la Cruz Vázquez, met climber Juan
Antonio Huisa, who informed about the new expedition.
Climbers Juan Antonio Huisa
and pedro López, from Club Deportivo Siete Cumbres (Seven Summits Sport Club),
leave this Friday from Sevilla to Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where they will
start a new phase of preparation for Andalucía-Antarctica 2004 Expedition,
which is sponsored by Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte de la Junta de
Andalucía.
The general director of
Activities and Sports Promotion, Juan de la Cruz Vásquez, met with Sevillan
climber Juan Antonio Huisa, who informed about his last two preparation
expeditions, in which they crowned Marmolada (Dolomites, Italy) and Montblanc
(the Alps) and their next challenge, Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where they
will have a period of acclimatization in altitudes above 5,000 meters.
In this new activity, Seven
Summits plans to ascend to Churup Lake (4,485 m.) and the snowy peaks around
like Vallanaraju and Jagyaraju. Other possibilities are Ishinca (5,530 m.),
Urus (5,495), Pastoruri (5,240 m.) and other summits like Ranarapalca,
Tocllaraju and Palcaraju West, without leaving out the higher peak of
Cordillera Blanca, the snowy peak of Huascarán Sur (6,768 m.).
The members of Club Deportivo
Siete Cumbres will continue their preparation this way, before their difficult
feat in Mount Vinson in Antarctica next December. In Antarctica, Huisa and
López will establish their base camp at 2,300 m. on the west side of Ellsworth
and camp I will be located at an altitude of 2,600 m. Climbing by the narrow
valley of Branscomb Glacier, the route goes up with some big cracks, for 3
kilometers up to camp I.
After trek to the Northwest,
a spur blocking Vinson has to be passed, climbing it by a canal (40º) facing
South, which can be seen from the front.
Then a glacier at the foot of
the Southwest face of Vinson is reached and camp II will be at 3,300 m. The
last camp will be at 3,750 m. on a wide and open gate between Mount Shinn and
Vinson, where the tents have to be sheltered with walls of ice. From this
Col, to the Southeast, a glacial valley of a fine slope takes to the summit
zone of the mountain, whose summit rises in the background.
Translated from Spanish by
Jorge Rivera
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