K2 2004: K2 North: Ideal weather for a climb to the summit: Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition

K2 2004 - 50 years later

K2 North: K2 North Side: Ideal weather for a climb to the summit

With the arrival of good weather, our willingness and optimism also improves.  The plan is to begin from base camp on Saturday during the night, and weather permitting, an attack on the summit for this coming Wednesday.

Perhaps our moment has finally arrived. The weather predictions for the next week do not show any major disturbance heading our way, but rather just a mild period of instability. 

We have made our plan of attack and all are anxious to get back onto the mountain and to breathe it’s air.

Since last night, the weather has suddenly improved for the better (we had awakened yesterday morning under a thick blanket of snow!) Today, for the first time, since I have been here, there is not a cloud in the sky, and it is quite a breathtaking view! The sun is high, strong and warm with a pharmacological effect stronger than any medicine.  The cascade of photons is re-energizing, filling us with optimism, faith and lots of smiles.

The camp and the group has been reinvigorated. So why are we still at base camp with such favorable conditions?  The latest weather prediction states that the high pressure currently in place will suffer a relapse between Saturday and Sunday, but then should restabilize itself for the remainder of the week. 

We have to plan for the best scenario, as we will be unable to make other attempts after this one.  We have therefore decided to depart on Saturday during the night and reach camp I.  There we will have to wait out the lapse in the weather and then proceed further up the mountain on Monday once it has passed.  If everything goes well, we should be able to try for the summit on Wednesday, a day which should be clear, strong winds notwithstanding (it never seems to leave us)! Claudio

Second Update: Giacomelli sends greetings to his colleagues on K2 North Side! Aug 5, 2004

Upon his return to Italy, Ugo Giacomelli was admitted to the hospital in Padova  in the surgical department of Prof. Picchi, one of the best known Italian experts in the treatment of frostbite. Prof. Picchi has already successfully treated Fausto deStefani, Giuliano deMarchi and Silvio Mondinelli. 

“They have placed me in a horizontal position, and are doing special treatments to increase the blood flow to my feet,” advises Ugo, “I feel pretty well, though, and I am hopeful that everything will turn out for the better”.

Upon learning that his friends on the north side of K2 will be attempting the summit climb, he sends his strongest wishes for success

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

 

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