K2 2004 - 50 years later
K2 North Side: Ideal weather for a climb to the summit
With the arrival of good weather, our willingness and
optimism also improves. The plan is to begin from base camp on Saturday
during the night, and weather permitting, an attack on the summit for this
Perhaps our moment has finally arrived. The weather
predictions for the next week do not show any major disturbance heading our
way, but rather just a mild period of instability.
We have made our plan of attack and all are anxious to get
back onto the mountain and to breathe it’s air.
Since last night, the weather has suddenly improved for the
better (we had awakened yesterday morning under a thick blanket of snow!)
Today, for the first time, since I have been here, there is not a cloud in the
sky, and it is quite a breathtaking view! The sun is high, strong and warm
with a pharmacological effect stronger than any medicine. The cascade of
photons is re-energizing, filling us with optimism, faith and lots of smiles.
The camp and the group has been reinvigorated. So why are we
still at base camp with such favorable conditions? The latest weather
prediction states that the high pressure currently in place will suffer a
relapse between Saturday and Sunday, but then should restabilize itself for
the remainder of the week.
We have to plan for the best scenario, as we will be unable
to make other attempts after this one. We have therefore decided to depart on
Saturday during the night and reach camp I. There we will have to wait out
the lapse in the weather and then proceed further up the mountain on Monday
once it has passed. If everything goes well, we should be able to try for the
summit on Wednesday, a day which should be clear, strong winds notwithstanding
(it never seems to leave us)! Claudio
Second Update: Giacomelli sends greetings to his colleagues
on K2 North Side! Aug 5, 2004
Upon his return to Italy, Ugo Giacomelli was admitted to the
hospital in Padova in the surgical department of Prof. Picchi, one of the
best known Italian experts in the treatment of frostbite. Prof. Picchi has
already successfully treated Fausto deStefani, Giuliano deMarchi and Silvio
“They have placed me in a horizontal position, and are doing
special treatments to increase the blood flow to my feet,” advises Ugo, “I
feel pretty well, though, and I am hopeful that everything will turn out for
Upon learning that his friends on the north side of K2 will
be attempting the summit climb, he sends his strongest wishes for success
copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.