K2 2004: K2 South – K2 North several updates: Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition

K2 2004 - 50 years later

25-07-2004

K2 South: "Agostino: I'm going to call you from the top!"

The Italian alpinists reached a strategic position for their assault to the top. Tomorrow is the Day. (11am, Italian time)

"Agostino: tomorrow I'm going to call you from the top": these are the words of "Gnaro" Silvio Mondinelli from camp IV at 7800m, where the Italian alpinists have just found their maxi tent "Colle Sud", to Agostino Da Ponenza (the expedition leader).

"We're all fine - goes on Gnaro - we've just walked the road from Camp III (at 7300 mt) to Camp IV with knee-high powder snow. We haven't seen other alpinists so far; very far, between Camp II and III - some sherpas follow our steps bringing their customers luggage. We're tired but quiet and going to relax a bit."

The whole expedition is very proud to know they're ready for the last step. Four alpinists of the Spanish expedition "Al filo de lo imposible" are together with the group at Camp IV too.

25-07-2004: K2 South: our alpinists at Camp IV

Today the Italian alpinists reached Camp IV. The mountain seems rather quiet. The close collaboration with the four members of the Spanish TV expedition - at 7800 m too - is going on too. This morning the group composed by Silvio Mondinelli, Mario Merelli, Stefano Zavka, Walter Nones, Alex Busca, Massimo Farina, Ugo Giacomelli, Karl Unterkircher and Michele compagnoni has installed Camp IV at 7800 mt.

Later on they were joined by Sergio Minoggio (already back at Camp II) and Tarcisio Bello, who's with them at Camp IV. The effort of these two alpinists has solved most of the logistic problems after the unexpected loss of the materials discovered a few days ago. The final attempt to the top should start tonight at 1:30.

Our alpinists are collaborating with four members of the Spanish TV expedition, at Camp IV too. The Spanish are lead by Juanito Oiarzabal, the only man in the world who climbed 20 8000s so far, and Edurne Pasaban, one of the strongest female climbers who reached already 6 8000s.

The helpful attitude of the Spanish climbers is somehow compensated by the strange behavior of the members of an another expedition who keep sniffing radio messages.

Now that the logistic emergency is solved, the expedition members at "Casa Italia" are trying to understand the reason of the loss of the tent at Camp III. Kurt Diemberger, in 1986, suffered something similar: "two of our tents got lost mysteriously, without leaving any sign.

Initially we thought the loss could be due to the wind, but later on we found many hints of a sabotage. Something similar could have happened this time too". Actually the tent was installed by our experienced climbers; just a 6mm-rope was found.

25-07-2004

K2 North: towards the top!

Busy morning on the North side for the the climbers who left this morning at 3am. Installed two tents above Camp I (6650 mt). Tomorrow the climbers will move to Camp II.

Busy morning for the climbers on the North side who left at 3 am and had to overcome an enormous amount of powder snow.

Fabio Agostinis reports from base camp: "It was a tough day and eventually, around 15:30, they reached 6650mt - slightly higher than Camp I - where they installed two tents. Tomorrow they will move to Camp II while I will reach Camp I with the materials they requested".

Fabio asks: "How are the South-expedition guys doing? I couldn't check on their site yet". All alpinists of the North expedition were very happy to hear that the problems due to the loss of the materials and tent (of the South expedition) were eventually solved.

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

 

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