K2 2004 - 50 years later
K2 South: "Agostino: I'm
going to call you from the top!"
The Italian alpinists reached
a strategic position for their assault to the top. Tomorrow is the Day. (11am,
"Agostino: tomorrow I'm going
to call you from the top": these are the words of "Gnaro" Silvio Mondinelli
from camp IV at 7800m, where the Italian alpinists have just found their maxi
tent "Colle Sud", to Agostino Da Ponenza (the expedition leader).
"We're all fine - goes on
Gnaro - we've just walked the road from Camp III (at 7300 mt) to Camp IV with
knee-high powder snow. We haven't seen other alpinists so far; very far,
between Camp II and III - some sherpas follow our steps bringing their
customers luggage. We're tired but quiet and going to relax a bit."
The whole expedition is very
proud to know they're ready for the last step. Four alpinists of the Spanish
expedition "Al filo de lo imposible" are together with the group at Camp IV
25-07-2004: K2 South: our
alpinists at Camp IV
Today the Italian alpinists
reached Camp IV. The mountain seems rather quiet. The close collaboration with
the four members of the Spanish TV expedition - at 7800 m too - is going on
too. This morning the group composed by Silvio Mondinelli, Mario Merelli,
Stefano Zavka, Walter Nones, Alex Busca, Massimo Farina, Ugo Giacomelli, Karl
Unterkircher and Michele compagnoni has installed Camp IV at 7800 mt.
Later on they were joined by
Sergio Minoggio (already back at Camp II) and Tarcisio Bello, who's with them
at Camp IV. The effort of these two alpinists has solved most of the logistic
problems after the unexpected loss of the materials discovered a few days ago.
The final attempt to the top should start tonight at 1:30.
Our alpinists are
collaborating with four members of the Spanish TV expedition, at Camp IV too.
The Spanish are lead by Juanito Oiarzabal, the only man in the world who
climbed 20 8000s so far, and Edurne Pasaban, one of the strongest female
climbers who reached already 6 8000s.
The helpful attitude of the
Spanish climbers is somehow compensated by the strange behavior of the members
of an another expedition who keep sniffing radio messages.
Now that the logistic
emergency is solved, the expedition members at "Casa Italia" are trying to
understand the reason of the loss of the tent at Camp III. Kurt Diemberger, in
1986, suffered something similar: "two of our tents got lost mysteriously,
without leaving any sign.
Initially we thought the loss
could be due to the wind, but later on we found many hints of a sabotage.
Something similar could have happened this time too". Actually the tent was
installed by our experienced climbers; just a 6mm-rope was found.
K2 North: towards the top!
Busy morning on the North
side for the the climbers who left this morning at 3am. Installed two tents
above Camp I (6650 mt). Tomorrow the climbers will move to Camp II.
Busy morning for the climbers
on the North side who left at 3 am and had to overcome an enormous amount of
Fabio Agostinis reports from
base camp: "It was a tough day and eventually, around 15:30, they reached
6650mt - slightly higher than Camp I - where they installed two tents.
Tomorrow they will move to Camp II while I will reach Camp I with the
materials they requested".
Fabio asks: "How are the
South-expedition guys doing? I couldn't check on their site yet". All
alpinists of the North expedition were very happy to hear that the problems
due to the loss of the materials and tent (of the South expedition) were
copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition
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