Home

   Everest 04 Home
   Today's News
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
  
Contact

   Downloads
   E-mail (Free)
  
Educational
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews 
  
Mailing List

   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   Sat Phones
   Search Everest 2004
   Speakers
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  K2 2004: Broad Peak NO Summits and K2 Update: Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition


K2 2004 - 50 years later

NO SUMMIT OF BROAD PEAK   July 9, 2004

No one was able to make the summit of Broad Peak yesterday due to excessively high winds.

“NO SUMMIT for the climbers who yesterday attempted to reach the top of Broad Peak (8047 m.).” Confirming this report was Major Raffat Kalim, communications official of the expedition K2 2004, after having consulted with all teammates at the various base camps.

The three members of an international expedition (2 american and a german), and other climbers, among whom were those of the Swiss expedition guided by Kari Kobler, with the Squirrel Mario Dibona, who yesterday set out for the summit of the mountain, DID NOT IN FACT REACH THEIR GOAL. 

THE UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL OF STRONG WINDS which preceded the weather disturbances now active on Baltoro, blocked the climbers’ progression at the pre-summit ridge of the mountain at 8028 m.  This height is only inferior to the summit by 30 meters, but the two ridges are separated by a 300 meter crest. 

THE NEWS IS CONFIRMED by other Italian climbers who were also attempting to climb the mountain.  According to the climbers who have now descended back to base camp, the wind was too strong and the snow was too high to allow them to proceed with any measure of safety. Since yesterday the weather has worsened considerably and now all climbers have descended back to base camp

Editorial Note: Stay Tuned :)

K2 South Side: We have completed “phase 2”   July 9, 2004

The bad weather persists on the south face of K2.  All climbers have returned to base camp.  As soon as the weather improves, however, we will complete the stocking of Camp III

July 9, 15:00 hours at base camp (12:00 in Italy)

The skies are gray and the snow continues to fall all the way down below base camp.  Base Camp – Camp Italy main tent is again crowded. All of our climbers have made a rapid descent off of the mountain and are now enjoying a well-earned meal and rest.

“A real snowstorm, truly worthy of K2!” is the unanimous comment of our group.  Morale remains high.  The climbers are all aware of having done good work and of having made a major step up towards the summit.

The tent of camp III is in an excellent position – advises Mario Merelli – I don’t think the bad weather will do it any damage. We have installed it a little below the planned spot, but I don’t believe we will need to move it higher up the mountain when we make our summit attempt.  

“Phase two” of the climb is therefore complete.  At the next good weather window, there will be some additional stocking up of camp III, but perhaps we will already be able to look to the summit attempt.

Serafino Ripamonti

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

Dispatches

 

 
Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

 






 

  Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Outdoor Designs

   Pelican

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Trekking Poles
   Ushba
  
and more here

 

 



  



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it