K2 2004 - 50 years later
NO SUMMIT OF BROAD PEAK July 9, 2004
No one was able to make the summit of Broad Peak yesterday
due to excessively high winds.
“NO SUMMIT for the climbers who yesterday attempted to reach
the top of Broad Peak (8047 m.).” Confirming this report was Major Raffat
Kalim, communications official of the expedition K2 2004, after having
consulted with all teammates at the various base camps.
The three members of an international expedition (2 american
and a german), and other climbers, among whom were those of the Swiss
expedition guided by Kari Kobler, with the Squirrel Mario Dibona, who
yesterday set out for the summit of the mountain, DID NOT IN FACT REACH THEIR
THE UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL OF STRONG WINDS which preceded the
weather disturbances now active on Baltoro, blocked the climbers’ progression
at the pre-summit ridge of the mountain at 8028 m. This height is only
inferior to the summit by 30 meters, but the two ridges are separated by a
300 meter crest.
THE NEWS IS CONFIRMED by other Italian climbers who were
also attempting to climb the mountain. According to the climbers who have now
descended back to base camp, the wind was too strong and the snow was too high
to allow them to proceed with any measure of safety. Since yesterday the
weather has worsened considerably and now all climbers have descended back to
Editorial Note: Stay Tuned :)
K2 South Side: We have completed “phase 2” July 9, 2004
The bad weather persists on the south face of K2. All
climbers have returned to base camp. As soon as the weather improves,
however, we will complete the stocking of Camp III
July 9, 15:00 hours at base camp (12:00 in Italy)
The skies are gray and the snow continues to fall all the
way down below base camp. Base Camp – Camp Italy main tent is again crowded.
All of our climbers have made a rapid descent off of the mountain and are now
enjoying a well-earned meal and rest.
“A real snowstorm, truly worthy of K2!” is the unanimous
comment of our group. Morale remains high. The climbers are all aware of
having done good work and of having made a major step up towards the summit.
The tent of camp III is in an excellent position – advises
Mario Merelli – I don’t think the bad weather will do it any damage. We have
installed it a little below the planned spot, but I don’t believe we will need
to move it higher up the mountain when we make our summit attempt.
“Phase two” of the climb is therefore complete. At the next
good weather window, there will be some additional stocking up of camp III,
but perhaps we will already be able to look to the summit attempt.
copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
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