K2 2004: Broad Peak NO Summits and K2 Update: Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition

K2 2004 - 50 years later

NO SUMMIT OF BROAD PEAK   July 9, 2004

No one was able to make the summit of Broad Peak yesterday due to excessively high winds.

“NO SUMMIT for the climbers who yesterday attempted to reach the top of Broad Peak (8047 m.).” Confirming this report was Major Raffat Kalim, communications official of the expedition K2 2004, after having consulted with all teammates at the various base camps.

The three members of an international expedition (2 american and a german), and other climbers, among whom were those of the Swiss expedition guided by Kari Kobler, with the Squirrel Mario Dibona, who yesterday set out for the summit of the mountain, DID NOT IN FACT REACH THEIR GOAL. 

THE UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL OF STRONG WINDS which preceded the weather disturbances now active on Baltoro, blocked the climbers’ progression at the pre-summit ridge of the mountain at 8028 m.  This height is only inferior to the summit by 30 meters, but the two ridges are separated by a 300 meter crest. 

THE NEWS IS CONFIRMED by other Italian climbers who were also attempting to climb the mountain.  According to the climbers who have now descended back to base camp, the wind was too strong and the snow was too high to allow them to proceed with any measure of safety. Since yesterday the weather has worsened considerably and now all climbers have descended back to base camp

Editorial Note: Stay Tuned :)

K2 South Side: We have completed “phase 2”   July 9, 2004

The bad weather persists on the south face of K2.  All climbers have returned to base camp.  As soon as the weather improves, however, we will complete the stocking of Camp III

July 9, 15:00 hours at base camp (12:00 in Italy)

The skies are gray and the snow continues to fall all the way down below base camp.  Base Camp – Camp Italy main tent is again crowded. All of our climbers have made a rapid descent off of the mountain and are now enjoying a well-earned meal and rest.

“A real snowstorm, truly worthy of K2!” is the unanimous comment of our group.  Morale remains high.  The climbers are all aware of having done good work and of having made a major step up towards the summit.

The tent of camp III is in an excellent position – advises Mario Merelli – I don’t think the bad weather will do it any damage. We have installed it a little below the planned spot, but I don’t believe we will need to move it higher up the mountain when we make our summit attempt.  

“Phase two” of the climb is therefore complete.  At the next good weather window, there will be some additional stocking up of camp III, but perhaps we will already be able to look to the summit attempt.

Serafino Ripamonti

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

 

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