K2 2004: K2 North Side: The steep inclines that lead to camp I are still too dangerous. July 8, 2004: Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition

K2 2004 - 50 years later

K2 North Side: The steep inclines that lead to camp I are still too dangerous. July 8, 2004

It is still too soon to risk making the steep climb that leads to camp I: The advance group of climbers that departed yesterday evening, along with those climbers who departed this morning have been forced to do an about face.

Mario, Daniele, Agostino and I have just returned to base camp.  Along with Claudio we departed this morning at 3 a.m. and at 4:20 we reached Nives, Romano and Luca at the deposit camp at the base of the wall. Nives, having felt slightly ill overnight, decided not to climb today.

Mario, Claudio, Romano and Luca started up the side of the mountain to properly position the fixed ropes towards CI.  After about an hour, Agostino, Daniele and I followed up behind them.  The speedy Daniele managed to rejoin the group above him. As I was climbing with Agostino, a little under 6000 m.,  Mario came back down to us to advise that an upcoming ridge was far too dangerous, with loose snow that had not hardened sufficiently.

We rapidly did an about face back down the mountain. Romano, Luca and Claudio continued on a tenuous traverse higher up on the mountain. Later, from base camp, we observed that they too had begun a return.  We await their news to learn of the conditions on this higher tract.  It will be absolutely necessary for the loose snow to harden somewhat before we make another attempt at the steep ridges that lead to camp.

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

 

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