K2 2004 - 50 years later
K2 North Side: The steep inclines that lead to camp I are
still too dangerous. July 8, 2004
It is still too soon to risk making the steep climb that
leads to camp I: The advance group of climbers that departed yesterday
evening, along with those climbers who departed this morning have been forced
to do an about face.
Mario, Daniele, Agostino and I have just returned to base
camp. Along with Claudio we departed this morning at 3 a.m. and at 4:20 we
reached Nives, Romano and Luca at the deposit camp at the base of the wall.
Nives, having felt slightly ill overnight, decided not to climb today.
Mario, Claudio, Romano and Luca started up the side of the
mountain to properly position the fixed ropes towards CI. After about an
hour, Agostino, Daniele and I followed up behind them. The speedy Daniele
managed to rejoin the group above him. As I was climbing with Agostino, a
little under 6000 m., Mario came back down to us to advise that an upcoming
ridge was far too dangerous, with loose snow that had not hardened
We rapidly did an about face back down the mountain. Romano,
Luca and Claudio continued on a tenuous traverse higher up on the mountain.
Later, from base camp, we observed that they too had begun a return. We await
their news to learn of the conditions on this higher tract. It will be
absolutely necessary for the loose snow to harden somewhat before we make
another attempt at the steep ridges that lead to camp.
copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition
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