K2 2004: K2-North and K2 South Updates: Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition

K2 2004 - 50 years later

K2 North Side: The team attempts the climb to camp I

The meteorological situation has improved on the north side of the mountain and the attempt to reach camp I is again a possible objective. After having reached the base of the wall today, we are planning to attempt the climb of the wall tomorrow.

July 7, 2004 Base Camp K2 North Side 

This evening we depart.  The weather “seems” to be good and therefore we are taking advantage of the situation and plan to attempt a climb to camp I at 6500 meters.  A first group of climbers (those who like to get an early start), are departing this evening and plan to sleep at the deposit camp, at the base of the wall.

Tomorrow morning they will be joined by the rest of the group, and all together they will work to fix rope on the long and steep slide that is the wall, all the way to camp I.

K2 South Side: The expedition gains ground

Agostino da Polenza’s unwillingness to be slowed down by some not too promising weather this morning, has allowed the team to make some gains on the mountain. A group of climbers climbed up to camp II this morning to open up the way towards camp III

“Willingness to take a chance” best defines our team leader today (though some speak of it as great good luck), Agostino da Polenza. The fact remains that his decision to depart this morning very early, weather predictions notwithstanding, has allowed us to meet our objectives to perfection.

The weather today is much better than had been predicted and so our climbers were able to make rapid headway up to camp II, where they are now preparing to spend the night so as to be able to get an early start toward opening up the passage to camp III tomorrow.

In the tent which sits above “Bill’s Walk” (?) are Marco Confortola, Enrico Lazzeri and Ugo Giacomelli.  Above the “Walk” in another tent, are Silvio Mondinelli, Alex Busca, Michele Compagnoni and Massimo Farina.

At camp I are Mario Merelli and Adriano Greco, who were delayed due to a brief indisposition of the latter.  The two decided to sleep at a lower altitude so as to maximize Adriano’s chances of recovering his energy.

Tomorrow, yet another group of nine climbers will depart from base camp, climbing towards the higher camps with sleeping bags, provisions, gas and all other necessary equipment to completely stock the higher altitude camps.

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

 

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