Andalucian climbers have passed the 7,000 meters mark
The members of Andalucia K2 2004
Expedition, sponsored by Consejería de Comercio, Turismo y Deporte through
Deporte Andaluz, are ready to attack the summit when weather permits.
Five members of the
expedition left Base Camp on the 12th with the intention to get to C3 and to
complete the last part of their acclimatization. During the ascent to C1, the
weather conditions worsened and when they got to 6,000 meters, Morales, Del
Moral and González decided to descend to BC, while Fernández-Vivancos and
Salazar kept climbing to go to sleep at C2 and left 200 meters of rope
definitively installed, in parts that were poorly equipped on the route
between C1 and C2. On the 13th and 14th the conditions have not been good but
no wind was present in high altitudes, which was convenient for them to get to
C3, and then they returned to C2 to spend the night. The ascent was made in
the fog, and they could finish a very important acclimatization phase.
Now the forecasts warn of bad
weather until Monday or Tuesday, the 20th, when a good weather window can
arrive to try to get to the summit. For Friday 16th, a chiefs of expeditions
meeting has been called, to update the situation in which every team is now,
to analyze the completed work and to determine some aspects of the attempts
for the summit. In the last days, it looks like dialog and common sense has
been prevalent in some isolated group.
"Weather forecasts -says Lolo
González-point to day 19th... to day 20th... At K2's BC everybody is
impatiently waiting for the days to pass, so that the weather forecasts can be
more accurate. Piolets and crampons are being sharpened, bags of food and
clothes are being set. The ghost of nervousness begins to float among
climbers, but they don't loose their spirit. There are still some days to go
and everything looks far away. We contemplate the summit of K2 well above our
heads, from the small tents of BC, from where every morning we take our first
glance, from where every morning we beg: Chogori, let us".
High altitude porters
On Karakorum they can be
Pakistanis or Nepalese. These men go unnoticed a lot of times while they do
their job, they let their bosses get to the summit with lots of help.
Some time ago, because of
constraints, they did not assume many technical responsibilities, but today
this is changing substantially and they no longer limit to carry heavy
backpacks by the side of eight-thousands, they also install fixed lines and
the big forgotten topic, they open the trail through deep snow, when the
snowfalls leave us without the path of packed snow.
Nepal's Sherpas, because of
their strength and technical capacity are more sought for and to an expedition
in Pakistan this can mean an investment of 5,000 per Sherpa, including
transport, insurance, salary and climbing permit because they are part of the
expedition like one more climber for the authorities of Pakistan.
A Pakistani could mean some 2,000 US dollars.
The Andalucia K2 climbers
have completed a new phase of acclimatization, which has lead them to 7,000
meters of altitude in 17 days at BC, of the 40 they dispose of. The first
ascent has been done from BC to C2 in one try, it was useful for them to spend
the first two nights at C2. The ascent to C2 was long and exhausting because
of lack of acclimatization, besides some uncoordination with Migma, about a
material that he had to carry up and the location of the two high altitude
tents, which are already installed up there. The only Sherpa of the
Andalucian expedition was dedicated to collaborate with the team of Sherpas
and local high altitude carriers, who climbed on the 7th up to the location of
C3, fixing lines on the Black Pyramid.
The development of events
have made the Andalucian expedition to be perfectly situated on the mountain,
with C1 and C2 perfectly installed and a depot at 7,300 meters, with tents and
stoves to be installed at C3 and part of what C4 will be.
Translated from Spanish by
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.