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  K2 2004: Andalucia K2 Expedition update


Journal of the last days of Andalucia K2 Expedition

Andalucia, July 9, 2004

ANDALUCIA K2 REACHES THE SECOND CAMP AT 6,500 METERS OF ALTITUDE BUT BAD WEATHER KEEPS THEM FROM STOCKING IT

Since July 1, Andalucia K2 2004 Expedition has had intense activity in high altitude; even if they had not done what they had optimistically planed since their last report form the Himalayas, these have been useful days to enhance acclimatization and to get all the necessary material to stock C2 (6,500 m.), in its location or under the House Chimney, very close from there.

During these days, the Andalucian expedition which is sponsored by Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte, has tried to accomplish all the work that was agreed with other expeditions, so they have checked and cleaned the anchorage headers of the ropes, completing the job done by the TVE team and installing a second line of ropes.  The intentions of González and Morales (from Málaga), Salazar (from Jerez de la Frontera) and Fernández Vivancos and García del Moral (from Granada), is to install 100 meters more of the second line in a section of the route which is equipped with a bad quality rope.

All climbers have been in good physical conditions during the ascents which they have done for acclimatization.  The wind conditions above 6,400 meters are very harsh and they have even stopped them from installing the ropes on the Black Pyramid, to get to C3 (7,100 m.)  So far 350 meters of ropes have been installed by the Tibetan expedition and there is no news that any other team has done any other work.

The members of the Andalucian expedition have left a new material depot under the Chimney while Migma Sherpa could get again to C2.  Because of the reigning weather conditions and the forecast of scarce conditions for the weather to improve, they decided to descend to Base Camp.  The strong wind at C2 which was confirmed by Migma, kept them from installing a tent and a strong snowfall followed in the next hours.

The Andalucian expedition hopes to have new weather forecasts, although everything looks like they will have to remain in Base Camp at least three days waiting for a good weather window to continue their progress on their attempt to crown the summit of Chogori or "Goddess of the mountains", whose summit has not been reached by anybody since July 22, 2001, when it was reached by Carlos Pauner and José Antonio Garcés, from Spain, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, Italian Hans Kammerlander, Sherpa Jangbu and Pasang Tshering III from Nepal, and the South Koreans Young Seok Park, Seong Gyu Kang and Hee Joon Oh.

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

The expedition is organized by Federación Andaluza de Montañismo, Club Alpino Ama Dablam (San Pedro Alcantara), Club Montañero Sierra del Pinar (Jerez de la Frontera) and Club de Aire Libre Treparriscos (Granada), and sponsored by Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte of Junta de Andalucía, through Deporte Andaluz, Ayuntamiento de Jerez, and also Tenencia de Alcaldía de San Pedro Alcantara and Delegaciones Municipales de Juventud y Deportes, Cultura y Turismo del Ayuntamiento de Marbella.

Dispatches

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

 
Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

 






 

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