the last days of Andalucia K2 Expedition
This is the
journal of the last days of Andalucía K2 Expedition, sponsored by Consejería
de Comercio, Turismo y Deporte through Deporte Andaluz. It has been written
by the chief of the Expedition, Manuel González, from Málaga.
Base Camp has been installed on K2 today, June 23
Base Camp has been installed on the highest mountain of the Karakorum sierra.
The camp has been installed at 5,000 meters of altitude on the moraine of the
Godwin Austen glacier, at the bottom of the formidable K2 pyramid, the
"mountain of mountains".
of materials are already at BC and we are waiting for the rest of the
shipments, to end our organization tasks.
definitively installed our mess tent and warehouse today, and we completed the
installation of the internal and satellite communications equipment; with the
latter, we have communications with the rest of the world again and we can
send our latest news. Our objective is the climb what is considered the most
difficult mountain on the planet, by the Southeast spur or Abruzzos spur. It
is an ascent that mixes vertical altitude (more than 3,400 meters from the
start to the top), difficulty (mixed terrain on snow, ice and very steep
rock), altitude (ends at 8,611 m.) and very harsh weather, usual on the
expedition headed by Kari Kobler has already installed the fixed lines up to
we did the main work for installing equipment on the route and this one the
expedition headed by Swiss Kari Kobler has already fixed the necessary lines
to get to the second camp (C2). This circumstance makes us plan our climb in
a very different way and we hope to dedicate the following days, exclusively
to stock the first two high altitude camps and to adapt to altitude.
heavily on BC since yesterday
Ha have it
all ready to make the first ascent to advanced base camp (ABC), although the
continuous snowfall we are having since yesterday has stalled the climbers of
numerous expeditions which are at BC.
of trekking to get to K2's base camp
On the 15th
we left by all terrain vehicles to Askole, over a difficult route in very bad
shape, taking us 8 hours for the journey; this route was built in 1991.
Askole is the last human settlement on the way to K2 and where porter are
hired to carry each 25 kilos of materials, food and anything else which is
needed for our climb.
are left in Askole because of lack of porters
expeditions arrived to the big valley where expeditions and excursions are
installed, and there our problems began. We had serious difficulties to find
porters. There are many expeditions this year to K2 because of the 50th
anniversary of the first ascent. On the 16th we started our trek
and we left behind 16 packages, with the open question of when will they
arrive to BC.
first day of approach, bad weather has been with us, without stopping us from
covering the planned phases:
Skardu - Askole, 8 hours.
Askole - Jhola (3,200 m).
Jhola - Paiju (3,635 m).
Acclimatization in Paiju.
Paiju - Urdukas (4,010 m).
Urdukas - Goro II.
DAY 21 Goro
II - Proximities of Broad BC (4,700 m).
Proximities of Broad BC - K2's BC (5,000 m). 2 hours.
was different from last year's because of the existence of toilets and
electric light on most of the camps used on each phase.
conditions prevented us from admiring the numerous mountains that raise on the
margins of the Baltoro glacier, from Paiju to its beginning, a total of 57
To make the
porter's way back easier, the last camp was made on the proximities of Broad
peak BC, reaching K2's BC in just 2 hours, which made it possible for them to
go back to Urdukas during the day.
member of the expedition joined us in Askole: Migma Sherpa
expedition group was completed in Askole, where all the members of the team
got together, as well as the Pakistanis who will be in BC like Migma Sherpa,
34 years old, who will join us for carrying tasks to the high altitude camps.
BC for three days because of bad weather
arrival to BC we have remained here without any acclimatization activities or
any stocking of the high altitude camps, because of the continuous snowfalls,
which have accumulated over thirty centimeters of snow on BC and we suppose
that there is a great amount of snow on the higher zones of the mountain.
We have a
radiant day this morning and during all the morning there have been
avalanches, with spectacular clouds of snow dust; because of safety all the
expeditions remain at BC, waiting for the successive avalanches to then start
the altitude tasks safely.
meetings of chiefs of expeditions to agree on safety during the climb this
There was a
meeting yesterday at Kari Kobler's BC, where members of the different
expeditions who are trying to climb the Abruzzos Spur route this season,
talked about an agreement over three fundamental matters: the installation of
equipment on the route, use of tents in higher altitudes, and a protocol in
case of accidents.
meeting there were different opinions which made debates interesting, about
installation of equipment and the use of tents: because of a proposal from
TVE's team, it was agreed that a meeting should be held this morning among the
seven expeditions who are willing to install the equipment on the route.
Following a proposal from ANDALUCIA K2, it was agreed that tents in high
altitudes should be used exclusively in case of emergency and their shared use
should be agreed between expeditions. Following a proposal from Kari Kobler,
it was agreed that in case of accident, information should be withheld for 48
hours, so that families could get first had true and direct news from the
climbers. A list of radio communications frequencies list will also be
coordinated, the designation of a point in the dial in case of accident and a
meeting of doctors to elaborate a protocol for action.
morning, the work to install equipment on the route has been distributed as
KOBLER, ANDALUCIA K2, TVE AND CARLOS SORIA EXPEDITIONS: are responsible to
install equipment of the second line of ropes between Advanced Base Camp (ABC)
and C2, and to install signals between BC and ABC.
TIBETAN, KOREAN AND IÑAKI OCHOA GROUP EXPEDITIONS: will install equipment on
the Black Pyramid (C2-C3) and they wait for confirmation of cooperation from
the Italian official expedition.
Coordination of equipment installation in higher altitude zones is still
pending, because of the impossibility to have information, because of the
disparity in the acclimatization of the climbers among the different groups.
expeditions value the safety of their climbers
decision to rig the route with a double line of fixed lines was unanimous, and
one of them will have a good quality rope. This year many climbers are on
this route and with this measure we will also speed up movements.
'fiesta' starts tomorrow
is ready and we wait with impatience for tomorrow to get again on the skirts
of K2. It has been ten months since we left these lands and we are here
again... ready and anxious to go back to the giant, with the hope that we can
caress its throat in a friendly way. A new adventure starts tomorrow for all
of us, the reality of an unachieved dream starts tomorrow. Let's hope
Andalucia gets to the summit of K2!
'fiesta' has started
Morales, Manuel González and Rai García del Moral, with the help of Migma,
arrived yesterday at 9:30 to camp 1 (C1), helping Kari Kobler's Sherpas,
opening the route and installing fixed lines; some sections of ropes were
buried under the snow, after the continuous days of snowfalls.
expeditions lose their tents installed at C1
first climb to C1 we have seen the elevated number of climbers who are here
this year, to get to this difficult summit. The surprise of the day happened
when we arrived to C1. The scene was devastating, of the 14 tents that we
should find at C1, we found only the remains of some: TVE had lost two of
three tents, Kobler had lost two of five and so the rest of the expeditions.
situation of chaos we decided to install a tent, in a spectacular location,
reduced but very safe. Those who finished the installation of the tent and
spend the first night there were Manuel Salazar and Fernando
Fernández-Vivancos, who have had their first night of high altitude
acclimatization above BC. We all met at BC today and we have been having
personal hygiene. The globe tent was installed on the snow and when it melted
because of the current weather, we found ourselves uncomfortable.
To stock C2
and to enhance altitude acclimatization, the objectives for the next days
weather is forecasted for the next days and Manuel Morales and I leave
tomorrow to C1, with the intention of installing C2 and to complete the
installation of equipment that TVE's team could have left pending. Salazar,
Fenando and Rai will join this work on July 2. Our objectives for the next
Sunday are to install and stock C2, to enhance our acclimatization and to have
Migma carry the first load to C3.
of acclimatization completed and C2 is almost ready
From day 1
we have sustained intense activities in high altitude, that have not produced
the optimistic plans we made in the previous report, but have been useful days
to enhance our acclimatization and to have all the necessary materials for C2,
stocked in C2's location or under House Chimney very close to C2.
we have tried to follow our commitment to install equipment and on day 2, we
checked and cleaned the anchoring ends of the ropes, finishing the job made by
TVE's team, installing the second line of ropes. We still want to install 100
meters more of the second line in a section which has a bad quality rope.
climbers are in good physical conditions and Karakorum's meteorology stops
them from completing the installation of the fixed lines on the Black
Pyramid. The ascents that the climbers have made for acclimatization have
confirmed their good physical conditions. We have to note the characteristics
of the wind above 6,400 meters. It has not been possible to install the ropes
on the Black Pyramid to get to C3. So far, 350 meters have been installed by
the Tibetan expedition and we have no news that none of the other teams have
made any progress.
We left a
new load of materials under the Chimney yesterday while Migma made it the C2
again. Because of the current weather conditions and the forecast we decided
to go down to BC. The strong wind on C2, confirmed by Migma, made it
impossible to install a tent and there has been a strong snowfall of this
morning. We will have a new weather forecast, although everything says we
will be at BC at least three days.
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
expedition is organized by Federación Andaluza de Montañismo, Club Alpino Ama
Dablam (San Pedro Alcantara), Club Montañero Sierra del Pinar (Jerez de la
Frontera) and Club de Aire Libre Treparriscos (Granada), and sponsored by
Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte of Junta de Andalucía, through
Deporte Andaluz, Ayuntamiento de Jerez, and also Tenencia de Alcaldía de San
Pedro Alcantara and Delegaciones Municipales de Juventud y Deportes, Cultura y
Turismo del Ayuntamiento de Marbella.
Translated from Spanish by
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.