Alfred Schreilechner K2 Expedition 2004 update 18

In the last time there have been no more updates because my computer finally was a victim of AMS. Thus I will write here a short summary of what happened in the last 14 days.

On the 21st of July I wanted to ascend on K2. I started at 2.00 AM but had to turn back after half an hour because I was sick and throwing up. As the weather report continued foretelling only bad weather, on the 22nd we decided to finish the Expedition and ordered porters. On the 24th then the surprise. Against the forecast it was a sunny day without any clouds, and the new weather report said it would stay like this for the next 5 days. Some of the mountaineers thus revised their decision and stayed for trying the summit.  My state of health still was not good and Gia also was sick. I was taking Antibiotics which actually did not help. A doctor told me that I probably had Jardia, but I could get medicaments against it only in Skardu.

After an exhausting trek back down the Baltoro we reached Skardu on the 29th and are now in Islamabad since the 1st of August.

A lot has happened on K2 in the meanwhile. 43 Mountaineers have summited on the 26th, 27th and 28th, afterwards weather turned bad again. Unfortunately one summiter, Aleksandr Gubaev, did not make it down. Aleksandr was member of my Expedition. With Davoud Khadem Asl and Sergei Sokolov, who refused to go down from Camp 4 after the storm arrived (even as other climbers tried to convince them to do so). Both are also members of my Expedition.

Dispatches

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

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