Alfred Schreilechner Broad Peak and K2 Expedition 2004 update 14

Update K2 base camp 7/2: During the night there has been a lot of wind around our camp at 6500m on Broad Peak. Yesterday evening Fred and I have decided to go down today. We have been getting up at 5.30, packing our things and leaving by 6.30. I still was not very well and only that I anyway had nothing in my stomach prevented me from throwing up all the time (stomach problems and diarrhoea are something very bad when climbing a mountain). The weather has been modest to bad and above 7000m it has been storming and snowing (and it still is). At 9.00, we had already reached the bottom of the mountain, we had radio contact to Rory and Chad. They spent the night at 7100m and want to try to get to 7400m today. Three from the Austrian Mountain Guides Team are also with them, but there are no more people up there. There is hardly any thinking about going for the summit because the snow conditions above 7000m almost do not allow any progress. Moving there rather resembles swimming in several meters deep snow than walking. At midday Fred and I finally reached Basecamp. I feel a little better by now and did not throw up lunch. After lunch I had a shower (if one can call that a shower) and after that I started “playing” on my computer. I managed to load some images, but my damaged hard drive would not take the movie sequence. Gia, Sascha and Sergei (also from our expedition) have just come back from Camp 2 (6100m) on Broad Peak and are enjoying their food. On K2 there was not much progress in the last days. Camp 2 has been reached again (as before the snowfall), but nobody got further by now due to the strong wind.

Dispatches

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

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